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“Tory isn’t this living doll,” her old friend Marjorie Gubelmann says.“That image of her next to a vase of hydrangeas—that’s her brand, and people are inspired by that.“I started to think, How do we make this stuff chic again?What a lot of sports brands miss is femininity, unless it’s a garish femininity in the form of exposed body parts and neon colors.“She inspires her team without making a big song and dance about it,” says Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Massenet.“She just does it and delivers results.” On a recent Thursday morning in her offices on West Nineteenth Street—appointed in orange and brown lacquers, with the requisite smattering of gold leaf, Lucite, and mirror; a ginger jar here, an Indian print there—Tory is, as always, everywhere at once.“I never want things be too vintage-y,” Tory says, “but imagine that perfect ski sweater that you see in a thrift shop but don’t buy because it’s too itchy or it’s all polyester.I thought, if we could make things superfunctional but still think about style and history, give them a beautiful feel in the hand, and maybe make them a bit preppy—that would be something different.”At the University of Pennsylvania, where she majored in art history, Tory’s friends liked to call her a “prock”: part prep, part jock. “Many of the things I see in her stores are reminiscent of the stuff she wore in college,” says Hayley Boesky, her roommate at Penn.

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But if you grew up with Tory on Philadelphia’s Main Line, where as the captain of the varsity tennis team at the Agnes Irwin School for girls she had a two-handed topspin backhand that was a kill shot, or if you have played at her garden court in Southampton, Long Island, steps away from the Jazz Age neo-Georgian mansion where she spends summer weekends, then you already know that Tory plays to win. It’s hard to empire-build politely, but she has managed it, delivering one of the world’s most successful fashion brands, now valued at around .5 billion, in little more than a decade.But she’s that mom who goes bonefishing in the Bahamas with her kids.All summer long, literally, her hair is wet.”Of course, has lately become a fashion buzzword, a term intended to embrace the kind of clothing that a woman might be able to wear at work, to the gym, and then to dinner.There’s a neoprene wet suit with floral side panels, a ponte blazer with a zip-out hood, pull-on dresses with tunic necklines, and oversize sweaters in cashmere that, she swears, breathes.

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Bags have compartments for water bottles and sunscreen, and sneakers are encrusted in navy-blue pearls.

Tory waxes lyrical about bonding and seam-sealing, windproofing and waterproofing, and indeed stealth functionality is everywhere—interior zip pockets, reflective piping, UPF fabrics.

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